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Post by poptrash on Mar 31, 2012 6:41:09 GMT -5
Hi,
Do some of you have tips 'n tricks how to photography 12" sleeves? By that i mean that I will be able to cut out the sleeve from the pic without the perspective being distorted. Hmmm... don't know if i am clear about my request. Hope you understand what i mean...
It's time to take pics of my LP's and 12"s for my database.
Thanks so much and best regards, Peter
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Post by figital on Mar 31, 2012 10:25:48 GMT -5
Hi, Do some of you have tips 'n tricks how to photography 12" sleeves? By that i mean that I will be able to cut out the sleeve from the pic without the perspective being distorted. Hmmm... don't know if i am clear about my request. Hope you understand what i mean... It's time to take pics of my LP's and 12"s for my database. Thanks so much and best regards, Peter hi peter, you need a copy stand! here's a some links on how to build one DIY www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=19857www.curbly.com/users/chrisjob/posts/3907-how-to-make-a-diy-camera-standwww.instructables.com/id/Copy-Stand-Cheap-and-easy-to-build/i made one for my legacy book project that is similar to the first link. i had all the parts around the house and it took about an hour to make. most of the parts came from the dollar store (clamps, small level, etc) as well, a useful thing is a large piece of grid/graph paper. so it will show you what is square and you can set your camera accordingly. of course this sets the camera up to get a square shot, but you still need proper lighting. so if you can use daylight near a window, it might be ok. but if not, you might need to get some high wattage daylight balanced twist bulbs and a soft box. here's a video to see one being made there's loads of vids on youtube that give all sorts of ways to achieve what you need. good luck and be sure to post some of your results for us to see!! p.s. you can always use photoshop to correct a small bit of perspective distortion if you can't get your image 100 percent square. select all (ctrl-a), edit, transform > skew should do the trick for you.
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Post by Mor Duran from Iceland on Mar 31, 2012 10:29:55 GMT -5
I would think that you need a tripod for the camera, first choose being one which you can exstend over a table. then you put the album sleeve on a table top, flat. add two lights, one on each side of the setup and shoot. set camera to is highest resalution, move the camera closer rather than zoom in. it all depends on the camera you´r using.
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Post by figital on Mar 31, 2012 10:39:43 GMT -5
I would think that you need a tripod for the camera, first choose being one which you can exstend over a table. then you put the album sleeve on a table top, flat. add two lights, one on each side of the setup and shoot. set camera to is highest resalution, move the camera closer rather than zoom in. it all depends on the camera you´r using. i'd say it's better to zoom in a bit than put the camera too close. the camera too close will cause aberration/distortion and make the image look slightly bent. a little less wide angle/a little zoom in from a greater distance is better to ensure that the edges are straight. and the problem with tripods is that they normally won't let you aim them perfectly straight down. you could always put your image on an easel or something and then square it, but using a copy stand is the best way to do loads of images and ensure they are all square and uniform.
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Post by figital on Mar 31, 2012 11:15:34 GMT -5
here's a photo of my old setup before i moved house... you can see my assistant is taking a shot of a 12 inch that is in the softbox. the lens of the camera is at the top of the image pointing down into the box. also, you can see he's using a cable release. if you don't have one of those, you could use the self timer on the camera to avoid shaking. also, you should turn all the lights off in the room and close the curtains. these shots were for fun, for nicholas to have a try and not the ones i used in my book ;-) i got that softbox/light box on ebay for really cheap. here's one for 14.88 with free shipping www.ebay.com/itm/16-White-Photo-Studio-Shooting-Tent-Light-SoftBox-Soft-Box-4-Color-Backdrops-/150776431685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item231af9c445that is going to make taking images of anything with a bit of shine on it's surface much easier :-) as well, you can see i used 4 point lighting. one light on each side. all the bulbs are matched and it's best to try and get the whole thing setup so the distances and angles are equal to give a nice even coating of light. i found around 45 degrees was a good angle to have the lights. but you need to do lots of tests and get it so your setup is just right. once you get it set, it is a good idea not to move it if you can avoid it!
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Post by poptrash on Mar 31, 2012 12:54:17 GMT -5
Thanks thanks thanks!
I do have a good camera (canon 400D), i got a decent tripod, i borrowed a softbox from work a month ago for this purpose so i'm halfway already!
The weather in Holland is a bit cold, so i got time as well i guess! But it might take me a couple of weeks to get the job done (the first ones will take most of the time i guess, then shooting them all, the do some adjusting and cutting and then insert them in my database.
Of course, i'll show some samples. I'm thinking of 3 great bootleg i'll be getting: - Beautiful Colours - 2LP with Astronaut demos - Coachella 2011 - LP with live show - Live in Argentina - 2LP with live show
Thinking about that, pic size will be too big i'm afraid!
Thanks again guys and if other have suggestions as well, please let me know.
Cheers, Peter
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Post by figital on Mar 31, 2012 13:35:33 GMT -5
another thing to consider is how you shoot in the camera. i would shoot RAW and then convert the final images to tif to keep the best quality. using RAW is great as you can use lightroom or some similar software to do global edits on all your images at once. so let's say you need to tweak the white balance. since you shot all the pics in the same light/conditions, it makes it easy to adjust one time and map it on to all the images instead of having to do it one at a time.
once you get them all done, you can use a piece of software like faststone photo resizer to batch convert them to low res jpegs for sharing on the net and other uses that don't need massive sized images.
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Post by MissNovemberTuesday on Apr 2, 2012 5:51:38 GMT -5
I love seeing the tips, but damn, it is like another language. I didn't understand anything in that last post, lol. I have the problem of trying to get good photos, too. And as I go through my stuff, I really do want to catalogue things better.
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Post by figital on Apr 2, 2012 11:14:22 GMT -5
I love seeing the tips, but damn, it is like another language. I didn't understand anything in that last post, lol. I have the problem of trying to get good photos, too. And as I go through my stuff, I really do want to catalogue things better. on new modern digital slr cameras, it's an option to shoot in RAW mode, which is full quality with no compression of the image. so for professional use, that is the way to go. if all you want to do is catalogue your collection, you just need a nice clear photo with no glare. for that i'd recommend taking the pics near a window with even light and making sure your flash is off. you should be able to get a clear shot of most everything without too much hassle.
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Post by MissNovemberTuesday on Apr 3, 2012 12:54:57 GMT -5
I do take them without flash if possible. I have mainly been taking simple shots, for the purpose of posting on FB just to share. If I get serious, though, I need to document the condition and I will need shots like across the surface if there are flaws and such, for my own reference.
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